![]() He said to buy two plain wax rings (no horn, no neoprene ring, etc.), cut one in half and use pieces of the second ring to make the first ring bigger on the OD AND ID. I called the plumber and he said that all I had to do is make my own custom ring. That restriction caused the toilet to back up. I don’t know if that part worked or not but much of the wax that is smaller than the ID of the flange fell down and got caught on the ledge. Problem was he couldn’t find the correct replacement flange so I ended up with a duplicate of your situation.Ī year later when I replaced the toilet, I used a wax ring with a horn figuring the horn would direct the flow away from the ledge. This was cast iron on a tile floor on a concrete slab so there was now access to cut the old one. I was told that all I had to do was break it off completely and solder on a new one. There was not enough remaining to se a flange repair ring. I know this wasn't the most professional solution but it had been done that way and worked for many years, hopefully it will last me the same.Ī few years ago, when my pull down bolts pulled out, I found the old cast iron flange had rusted away. If it leaks, it should be noticeable from the back edge. I secured the front edge and sides with an adhesive caulk. Test flushes were successful, no sign of seeping. ![]() I bolted the toilet down, compressing the wax, then shimmed it level using bits of plastic shims. I also packed some wax in the void above the 4"pipe and below the bottom of the flange. I used multiple plain wax rings and fashioned a double-wide expanded ring of wax around and along the top of the flange, surrounding the bolts. In the end, I decided to replicate what had already been done. Thus, stacking the wax rings would not have worked because part of the base "ledge" was too narrow along a portion of the circumference! The dutchman looks like the best bullet-proof permanent solution, but I don't have that much confidence in my DIY ability. What I discovered (and you can't really see in my pictures) is that the flange wasn't centered well over the 4" pipe. I have done this numerous times over the last 30 years and never had any issues, even years down the road.just be sure to BLEND the gaskets together to make that a good strong stack of gaskets, OK? ![]() That should be all you need to do in this case. You want the wax gaskets on the inside of the flange to remain wide so you can finally set the wax ring with horn on the toilet, set the toilet bolts into place and then install the toilet bowl.īe sure to mold the gasket tight to the inner flange without thinning them out, but tight enough that you can see the wax adhering to the inner nfim a good strong "stack" has been built and then install the toilet bowl. Here, the idea is to build/mold a STACK of wax rings in such a way that you bring the wax gaskets flush to the top of the closet flange. Repeat this for the next couple gaskets joining them down on top of the other(s) wax rings. Mold the first one tight to the walls of the pipe, but keep the width of the gasket the same. ![]() You may need to tear away an inch or so of the wax gasket and reform the ring for the best fit. Here's a fix that should do the job for you.it isn't perfect by any means but short of replacing that gasket it should work just fine! You will need to purchase 3-4 wax gaskets WITHOUT horns or neoprene inside.just plain wax rings and then 1 wax ring with a horn, OK?Īfter purchasing the wax gaskets you'll want to take them, and one at a time, set a wax gasket into the flange in such a way that you make a ring on the inside of the flange that sits on top of the pipe. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |